"I can’t wait to make the 2021 wines" – Pietro Ratti, Annunziata, La Morra.

The 2021 harvest is ongoing throughout Italy, beginning about two or three weeks ago in most regions (though as far back as mid-August for some sparkling wines) and continuing through November for areas such as Taurasi in Campania. It's a good news/bad news year, with the bad news being a decline of yields ranging from 10 percent to almost 50 percent in limited instances. But the good news should offset that, as most producers are thrilled with the results, believing the quality of the fruit to be among the best in recent years.

Here are insights from several producers, starting in the north and moving south throughout the country.

Piedmont

Just as harvest of Nebbiolo for Barolo was set to begin on Monday, October 4, a small rainstorm of 25mm (0.63 inches) hit the area. But the only problem this caused was a one-day delay in picking. "Now we're having nice weather, and everything is already dried out," commented Stefano Gagliardo of the Gianni Gagliardo winery in La Morra. "I think the rain was actually good! Like an energy bar at the end of a run."

Gagliardo had not yet picked any Nebbiolo at the time of this writing, both in the Langhe as well as in the Roero, where he sources fruit for his Langhe Nebbiolo. "Our expectations for the vintage are definitely high, as far as quality. But we need a couple of more weeks to get everything at home as the ripeness is happening slower than expected which again, is great for the complexity of the wines."

For Pietro Ratti at the eponymous winery in Annunziata, "there was little rainfall, so there were many dry days during the growing season – it was like heaven. It's a very unique year. The vines worked well – they didn't suffer. I was so confident about the quality. It is very rare to have such a year like this."

Veneto

In Soave, Chiara Coffele of the eponymous family winery noted a 10 percent decrease in quantity from last year, with a hot, but not torrid summer and average precipitation. "The whole month of September saw above-average temperatures, resulting in an acceleration in ripening." She notes that the pergola training system, which shades the fruit, and accounts for 90 percent of their plantings, mitigated the heat of this year. "The skins of the Garganega this year are very consistent."

In the Valpolicella zone, Alessandro Castellani of Ca' La Bionda, notes the ideal conditions throughout the year. "There were no extreme temperatures in the summer, while rainfall was well timed. From the end of August and until the end of September we had 10 degrees of temperature variations between day and night which allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly at the phenolic level.

"The grapes for the Amarone and the Recioto are already all in the loft and during the harvest we did not find a grape or a bunch affected by botrytis, a sign of great health. The 2021 harvest in Valpolicella is a great vintage, certainly at the levels of 2019. 2021 is a vintage that my father, who has seen so many, believes should be one of the best!"

Tuscany

Chianti Classico suffered drought conditions for three months during late spring and most of the summer, causing significant decreases in yields, but producers here are quite pleased with the results. At Castello di Volpaia, Federica Mascheroni Stianti notes a production loss between 10 and 15 percent, but is enthused with the quality of the  Sangiovese. "The grapes look healthy with small berries, nice skin and ripe seeds. The must has a nice balance between sugar and acidity. The phenolic maturation looks good."

At Casanova di Neri in Montalcino, Gianlorenzo Neri comments: "Summer was quite warm with a couple of scattered showers, especially in June where we almost had 60mm (2.2 inches) of rain. Harvest times followed our tradition, as we started in mid-September with the Tenuta Nuova vineyards and finished in Cerretalto within the first week of October."

Neri is excited about the potential of his 2021 wines. "Very high quality of the grapes, intense colors, optimal acidity and bright aromas. For our dad this vintage reminds him of 2001."

Marche

At the Andrea Felici winery, one of the premier Verdicchio producers, Andrea Felici recalls that spring was characterized by very little rainfall and low temperatures, with a few frosts in April. "Summer was warm and very dry, and was characterized by continuous high temperatures, while at the end of August, the arrival of some rain showers brought with them an important temperature day-night shift.
 
"In short we have great quality but with low quantity [around 15 percent less than previous vintage]."

Umbria

Filippo Antonelli of the eponymous estate in Montefalco, noted a night of frost on April 8 that caused damage "not only in the valleys, but also on the hills. Sangiovese and Grechetto were more damaged than Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino." Winter was rainy, but not March or April, while the rest of spring and the entire summer was very dry and very warm.

"Despite the climate," Antonelli says, "the grapes and the wines seem much better than expected … the vineyards with soils deep and rich in clay suffered less than the very poor soils rich in sand and stones. We expect a reduced production of 25-35 percent and a 10 percent reduction of the juice we get from the grapes."

Abruzzo

Stefano Illuminati of the family winery in Controguerra, reports that emergency irrigation was necessary due to the dry spring and a hot and dry summer. Thanks to this intervention, he states that the quality of the grapes is "excellent". Harvest for Montepulciano is proceeding well and will continue until the end of October.

Campania

Antonio Capaldo, proprietor of Feudi di San Gregorio in Irpinia, comments on the various harvest for different varietals, with Falanghina being harvested one week earlier than usual; according to him, Falanghina shows "good quantity and quality, although with a bit lower acidity than average".

For Fiano, freezing nights in April decreased overall production by 40-50 percent, although he believes that, for vineyards at high altitudes, "it will be a remarkable vintage". He labels Greco as "the most puzzling", as the grapes were slow in reaching proper maturation. "Yields are expected to be 50 percent lower than last year." Regarding Aglianico for Taurasi and a few of his other red wines, yields were not affected as with the white grapes, but as harvest will not be until November, it is too early to say.

At Donnachiara, also in Irpinia, Ilaria Petitto noted a 20-30 percent loss in yields; however, the grapes are "healthy without any diseases … Aglianico is under observation due to the weather but for now, it looks splendid."

Sicily

Planeta co-proprietor Alessio Planeta, is enthused about the 2021 growing season, which coincidentally is the first with organic certification for the winery. "2021 was a beautiful harvest in the west both for quality and quantity; healthy and intense in the southeast with a generic decrease of 15 percent, and yet to define on Etna, where today I would say that there will certainly be a decrease in production, but the quality – especially in the vineyards higher up – might well be super."