The sight of 40 empty bottles of Nebbiolo can be taken two ways. A tribute to a brilliant evening, or the second coming of Boris Yeltsin.

Stop disapproving. It was for a good cause. Thanks to the generosity of various wineries and promotional bodies in Piedmont, I was able to judge a diverse portfolio of Nebbiolo wines from several up-and-coming terroirs in the region. The selection included both 'unsullied' Nebbiolo and a few blended styles, sourced from the appellations of Albugnano, Roero, DOC Langhe, Monferrato and the newly minted DOCG zone of Terre Alfieri. From one perspective, the line-up offered no surprises: the quality was as variable as one would expect, with inspiring wines sharing table space with amorphous Nebbiolo imitations. But the top labels (accounting for about 40 percent of the total selection), offered an unbeatable price-to-quality ratio. In particular, Roero stood out among the crowd.

Much has been said recently about the rising quality of Nebbiolo grown outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco zones. There is a broadening consensus that the two 'Bs' have lost their monopoly on producing structured, perfumed and ageworthy Nebbiolo wines. The tasting confirmed that some excellent Nebbiolo can be found northwest of the city of Alba, on the sandy soils of the River Tanaro's north bank. Terre Alfieri, which lies southwest of Asti and covers 11 municipalities, is no poor relation. Exciting stuff is also happening in Monferrato, an expansive region situated in the provinces of Alessandria and Asti.

Less has been said, however, about the precise extent to which the impostori are encroaching on Barolo and Barbaresco's turf. If a selection of leading growers from Piedmont's "second-tier" appellations were tasted blind, could they fool the critic into believing that a glass of Cannunbi or Santo Stefano was gracing their lips? I'll answer that later. More pertinently, is there any point in paying top dollar for Barolo, when there is far greater value to be found elsewhere?

Brand snobs and status seekers will always be with us, of course. Demand for the top crus of Piedmont's superstar appellations will remain healthy for the foreseeable future.

But aficionados who chase premium quality at a fair price may wish to look further afield. The samples that arrived last month reinforced the consorzios' insistence that standards in viticulture and winemaking have risen dramatically over the past decade. The quality gap is becoming narrower and narrower. Barbaresco and Barolo finally have some real competition chomping at their heels.

New horizons for Nebbiolo

As we emerge from one of the worst years in living memory, I wanted to highlight a positive story – the kind that reminds us why wine is such a titillating beverage. That had to be about sourcing delicious Nebbiolo wines at fair prices. Italy's most ethereal and hauntingly beautiful grape is one of the reasons why I get out of bed every morning. It is still impossible, thank god, to find cheap Nebbiolo that is worth a second look. Yet the expanding net of brands priced at $20-$35 has to be good news.

From what I could tell, the differences between Barolo/Barbaresco and their increasingly sure-footed rivals can often be stylistic in nature. The top labels I tried from Roero lacked the tannic structure of their neighbors across the river, albeit there were some very precise and elegant wines. Over 35 growers across five appellations ensured that every bottle had an individual story to tell. Some were very light, softly structured and intensely perfumed, with the quintessential Nebbiolo aromas of raspberry, sour cherry and violets. Other more weighty examples were models of extraction – occasionally overly so – and deeper concentration. I'm not sure that Nebbiolo and Barbera should sleep together, but a few winegrowers in Albugnano thought otherwise.

As elsewhere, the buyer needs to do a bit of research before waving arrivederci to their cash; poor wines from the outlying zones were hardly scant in number, typically being either dilute or clumsily over-extracted. Equally, there was a homogeneity that ran through almost every Nebbiolo wine deserving of a medal. Despite the expected differences, the top-scoring wines boasted much of the finesse of top-end Barolo, with beguiling perfume, poise and fine acidity. They refreshed your palate, reminding you that Nebbiolo is possibly the greatest red grape on earth.

Drawing on my experiences last month, it's probably a stretch to claim that there's a Bruno Giacosa or Giacomo Conterno Arione hiding in the hills of Piedmont's less famous appellations. I tasted a surfeit of 'Premier Crus', however, 'Grand Crus' were noticeable by their absence. The best wines of Barolo and Barbaresco still have no equals. Yet it is hard to justify paying hefty(ish) sums for mid-range Barolo/Barbaresco in light of the achievements in Roero and the vineyards flanking Asti. Many would undoubtedly disagree with me. But most of the protests can be heard from complacent growers southwest and northeast of Alba.

On the other side of the coin are winemakers like Oscar Arrivabene, responsible for the Barolos at Domenico Clerico. Arrivabene is fascinated by the search for tomorrow's exceptional Nebbiolo terroir, having spent the last few months getting to grips with Alto Piemonte. The zone is situated north of Turin, flanked by the Alps and divided by the Sesia river, with Lake Maggiore found on the western edge of the sub-region. Producers such as Conterno and Angelo Negro are increasingly investing in Alto Piedmonte, attracted by the cooler growing season temperatures, when compared to the Langhe hills. According to Arrivabene, the clay soils and marked variance in day/night temperature presents an enticing package today. Global warming strikes again: 25 years ago, Alto Piedmonte's climate could not have ripened Nebbiolo's hefty tannins to the satisfaction of both producer and consumer.

"Those days are over," says Arrivabene. "Alto Piemonte is on fire at the moment, as more and more investors regard the zone as a key future terroir for Nebbiolo. The soils and climate naturally give high acidity in the wines, something which is obviously desirable. This is what climate change does – everyone looks to move higher and cooler. One day, we may decide to take the plunge ourselves. But it's early days – I'm still learning and exploring."

2021 a glorious time to fall in love with Nebbiolo's ethereal charms. It's in danger of becoming the most democratized fine wine style in Italy: rising quality, wider choices and fairer prices. It's all here: exorbitantly expensive labels, affordable premium bottlings – from a range of appellations – and lackluster dross. Barolo and Barbaresco's hegemonic grip is moribund. In Piedmont, free-market competition has triumphed.